Why is it that Luxor, Egypt feels like an oasis in the desert ? Many reasons! Leaving the energy of Cairo and entering Luxor is like entering a welcoming portal of romance, authenticity, and luxury in a different way than what is experienced in Cairo. After the intensity of Cairo with the pyramids, Egyptian museum, entertaining nights of hookah, music, glamour and sumptuous food, Luxor offers a quieter, composed environment while still showcasing significant Egyptian treasures and antiquities.
Landing at the Luxor airport, the first difference noticed is that the majority of the people are dressed in robes and turbans. The streets are much less congested from Cairo which immediately puts one in a relaxed state. Some love the hustle-bustle of metropolises but the smaller cities’ charm offers a respite that allows a quality of sightseeing that is fulfilling.
The Hilton Luxor Resort knocks one’s socks off. Looking out onto the vast Nile River with no border or railing creates a visual extension of the infinity pool. The pools, patios, spa, and buffet are such a tropical setting. A cold beer poolside anywhere in Egypt is an important afternoon treat.First of all, the Nile River is right there rather than in Cairo where it’s hard to cross the street to get to it. The felucca sailboats are lined up next to the resort. Inside the hotel, a small version of a bazaar is on site which provides stress-free shopping. The stores have a perfect variety of Egyptian souvenirs, jewelry, papyrus art, etc. that one would look for at the larger bazaars of the city.
The circle drive of the Luxor is calm and easy in catching a taxi or meeting your tour guide. In Cairo, some hotels have security measures and checkpoints. However, in Luxor, you simply walk out onto the circle drive to meet your driver. An appropriate first excursion in Luxor is a horse drawn carriage tour of the city. You’ll trot off into the night illuminated by lights, markets, music, and convivial crowds. The buggy drivers, decked out in robes, will show you the market and the Old Winter Place Hotel (where Lord Carnavron announced the discovery of King Tut’s tomb and where Agatha Christie supposedly wrote Death on the Nile.) Families gather and stroll. The reduced temperatures at night make it more comfortable for people to go outside.
In the morning, you’ll see several hot air balloons ascending the sky of pink sunrise. Across the Nile River, this is a too good to be true visual. After an early breakfast buffet, meet your tour guide who will take you to the Luxor and Karnak Temples. Expect that it can 105 degrees days. There doesn’t seem to be any shade anywhere. The temples, plazas, etc.can be more impressive than the Sphinx and Pyramids of Giza in some ways. Unexpected massive statues, walls or carvings, and such detail and precise measurement seems inconceivable for that era. It is profound.
Rest up at the resort and nap or lounge in the double hammocks. The bar in the Hilton is stunning and serves up a great cappuccino if you’re not in the mood for cocktails. Then, venture back into the romantic night. Shop at a papyrus art gallery, stroll through the bazaar, and then ask your driver to take you to a village. Driving through the enclaves situated behind maize fields will delight you. Villagers seem sheltered from the city-center and sit in groups on the side of the road. Children run beside your taxi and get very excited at your arrival into their little universe. Heading back to your hotel, the drive through town thrusts you back into city life. Music pulsating from your taxi radio rather than the nonstop honking in Cairo allows you to feel the romance of Luxor.
Valley of the Kings is a highlight of Luxor and you must be serious about hydrating in order to complete all of your sightseeing. But don’t feel guilty if you just want to luxuriate back at the hotel pools.
Egypt is a marathon of sightseeing and there’s much to fit in. However, it’s also considered sightseeing when you sit for a spell in the bazaar cafes and people-watch. Dinner at the Hilton Luxor restaurant is a relaxing way to gaze at the Nile River, enjoy the decorated trees and patios, and be entertained by quiet, live music. For those who take a Nile River cruise, they have the convenience of unpacking only once and sailing from town to town. But if you are flying into Luxor, the Hilton Luxor hotel is luxurious and very well-priced.
Luxor is simply astounding–from the startling archeology to the joyfulness of the villagers. It’s the essence of Egypt.
© GIna Michalopulos Kingsley
photos by GIna Kingsley