It has been years since I went to the Saronic islands of Greece. Hydra, Aegina, Poros…with their charming ports and stately architecture.
What about Spetses? It’s the sleepy island further down in the Saronic gulf. Intrigued by an article I read about how Spetses has no cars; only a few horse-drawn buggies, I decided to read more about the island.
It’s true that there are no cars but there are motorcycles and mopeds whirring by you from every which way. At first, I was startled by this ant colony effect of transportation from the island’s visitors but eventually I became accustomed to it. Actually, I found it an endearing part of Spetses’s vibe. Many Athenians flock to Spetses for their nearby island retreat from the big city. It’s a “see and be seen” spot for many. For most, however, I’m sure it’s quite the opposite.
Reportedly, Onassis and Jacqueline vacationed there before marrying on my favorite island; Skorpios. (I’ve been to the public access part of Skorpios and the surrounding environs on a most magical boat excursion.) We took the ferry boat from the Piraeus port of Athens to Spetses, passing Hydra and Poros. Due to those stops, the ferry ride was a couple of hours but extremely enjoyable adjusting to the Saronic Islands “look”in contrast to the Cycladic islands we had just visited. That’s one of the details I adore about Greek island clusters. They are all unique. The Ionian, Cycladic, Dodecanese and northernmost island clusters each have their own distinctions. As our ferry stopped at Poros to pick up passengers, the port town patina sparkled. So different from the joyous blue and white Cycladic architecture, these Saronic islands have a very elegant and stately veneer.
Ornamental railing, statuettes, subdued painted doors and windows, and even the seaside promenade were serene. Being there in late September, we did not encounter many tourists. It appeared that the visitors were mostly local mainland Greeks. After doing many boat excursions and daring climbs and hikes at the previous Cycladic island we visited, Spetses forced us to slow down. You can walk the island. We took a horse buggy one way and walked the way back on one occasion. 
The one taxi (or so) that is available was too expensive to take out to a wilderness area so we chose to do a more cultural tour of the island. Our Air BnB was in the town center and the hosts were so welcoming and friendly. It was so easy to dine, shop, and stroll. If you wanted beach time, you took your towel and sat on the pebbly beach. We saw fishermen catching octopus. 
Another time, we saw a beautiful Romanian tourist set up a picnic on the seawall with her favorite cheese, meats, and wine from the adjacent charcuterie shop. She even lit a votive candle right there in the array of delicacies. I asked if I could take her photo and as we chatted, I discovered that she and her friends visit the island frequently and thus knew the charcuterie shop well.
Being active travelers that we are, we sought out museums in order to learn more about the island. The Laskarina Bouboulina museum was here on Spetses and her statue stood proudly overlooking the sea. How fortuitous this was for us! (My parents’ dog is named after Bouboulina.) Bouboulina is a fascinating, historic figure whose home has been turned into a most edifying museum. Easy to navigate (no pun intended for this famous female admiral) and get lost into the information, we sauntered through the home’s rooms. We absorbed every detail. Best part of all was when we met the docents who are her sixth generation descendants! I cannot tell you how meaningful that is to experience male descendants of this female heroine continuing her legacy…six generations later!https://www.neomagazine.com/2022/03/so-who-was-bouboulina/?fbclid=IwAR18mLYalHcHysIVhlolfZx2e8Mrumr5S71UuGL9p4_R7lGh-cm7hsD2bfk
I found a boat in the port with my Greek name on it: Evgenia. That’s never happened to me before as my name is not that common. I saw a restaurant named Dino’s. My father’s name was Deno and he was an extraordinary cook. I returned several times to a favorite boutique challenging myself to add pieces to my wardrobe transporting that European look back to midwest America. We slowed way down. We played many games of Gin Rummy while drinking cafe frappes and eating loukoumades; the honey and nut drizzled pastry puffs while people watching at the port. Those motorbikes continued to buzz by us as we became part of the energy of the island.
We shopped in an antique store that combined textiles, artifacts and icons as well as a quirky mannequin dressed half vintage/half modern. We unraveled the layers of Spetses like a spool of yarn. Her village roads, climbing floral vines, enigmatic estates, and island pride are all pieces of this Spetses puzzle. The historic distinction of being home to Laskarina Bouboulina sets her apart from the other Saronic islands.
I’m glad we whet our appetite for discovering this island. The Spetses charm is very suitable for many tourists and one that I look back on fondly, now. While I still prefer the other island clusters, I must admit that a favorite feature is that we could gaze upon the Peloponese mainland across the gulf. The Peloponesus terrain beckoned to me with all the childhood memories of being at my father’s village. Peloponesus was a mere 25 minute ferry boat ride away. Tempting!
A nice closure to our Spetses visit was being able to view the nearby Saronic islands again on the way back to Piraeus. You exit the quiet retreat of Spetses to return to the bustling metropolis of Athens…and you’re ready for it because you’re rested and recharged.
©Gina Michalopulos Kingsley
photos by Gina Kingsley