The recent darling of the Cyclades islands of Greece is Milos.
All these years that the show ponies, Santorini and Mykonos pranced and galloped for all the tourists to see, there was Milos quietly reveling in her volcanic ash and obsidian glory.
To personify this island, Milos is both a goddess and a warrior. She’s Aphrodite and Athena rolled into one. Ironically, the Venus de Milo (the Roman version of Aphrodite) is said to have emerged from the frothy, foamy seas of this very island. Looking at her, she boasts the same cobalt waters and white washed villages but underneath her soil is a rugged, earthy, rocky mass. Unorganized and still somewhat untouched by excessive tourism, she’s a virginal island. You have to go through somewhat treacherous measures to reach her stunning beaches. No boardwalks or even trails or footpaths leading to the openings of stunning caves and coves leave you compromised. You park your rental car and start the descent through paths of rocks and pebbles which can “avalanche” at any time. We had the bruises to prove it as well as the scrapes with a dusty volcanic ash to wear like a badge (the first time we went) . It made it more exciting to reach the beaches and openings to absolute splendor. Some tourists used walking sticks which is smart. Some Milos beaches taunt you with their “come look at me, come find me….but I will cut you up in the process. Come here if you dare. Ha, ha! You slipped, tripped or fell.” Persevere though because it’s worth it.
One particular beach, Tsigrado, had a dusty, earthen slope to maneuver (on our butts) to break any chance of sliding further. After the slope, there’s a rope and ladder nestled between a crevasse. Beachgoers wait in line both at the top and bottom to use the ladder and rope. Down at the mouth of the cove is a small “beach” area with enough room for sunbathers as others dip in and out of the blue-green water. A few beaches have umbrellas, chairs and even one food truck but many of the Milos beaches are so raw and primitive, the tourists bring their own equipment.
Papafragos, Firiplaka, Firopotamos, are all impressive. Kleftiko is so popular, there are boat tours focused on it. However, if the weather is too windy, the tours won’t happen those days. Paleochori is unique with its red stained rocks. Many parts of Milos have streams of pink in the mountains reminiscent of a Sedona vista. A few boulders towering in the sea have taken on the formations of rabbits and bears which is fun for the boat passengers to see as you tour the various beaches. Basalt rocks and caves are part of the beautiful variety of landscapes. Whether it’s a seaside village of syrmata (brightly painted boat garages) or unique beaches, there are surprises at every stop. Throw in the anchor, grab a noodle, and jump in to these glorious waters. The breakfast, lunch and beverages make this approximately 5 hour boat tour a comfortable excursion.
While most of the restaurants are fabulous, a particularly famous restaurant in Milos is called O Hamos. It was recommended to us by friends and it’s also listed in many travel articles. O Hamos is beyond unique. There are no reservations so you put your name on a waiting list and lounge on the beach lounge chairs across the street where you can order drinks and enjoy the views. Dinner under a massive grapevine is a cozy experience with cats skulking around the tables greeting you at your feet. 
The menu is handwritten in various languages inside a book. Enchanting! You might even be seated at a table with others like we did. It was a delightful way to meet strangers on vacation. O Hamos was so worth it, we dined there again that week.
Pollonia and Plaka villages were distinctly different experiences. In Pollonia, we stayed on a vineyard and walked to the port everyday. In Plaka, we were perched up high in the steep village. The boutiques and restaurants were very chic and a particular photo gallery was the highlight of our stay for me. By far, Sarakiniko beach and the boat tours were the best part of the Milos experience. A ferry ride over to Kimolos will be a separate blog as well as one on Sarakiniko beach. Named for the Saracen pirates, the “moon beach” as it’s called is too stunning and unique to not warrant its own blog!
Put Milos on your list. You can take the ferry or fly from Athens. A rental car is recommended although there is a bus system if you don’t mind waiting. We found the rental car to be the easiest for us. Pack accordingly …and consider walking sticks or at the very least, good walking shoes with tread!
For a fee, you can contact me for recommendations for lodging, restaurants, shopping, wineries, boat tour operators, personal tour guides and trip itinerary consultations.
© Gina Michalopulos Kingsley