A Kansas City Weekend – Art Crawling and Dining

There are zillions of ways to do a weekend or short stay in Kansas City. But if you go on the first Friday of the month, you’ll encounter the First Friday Art Crawl in the Crossroads district. The art galleries ambience within an artfully architectural district is very fulfilling—aesthetically, visually and culturally.After an amazing meal at Lidia’s Farmhouse Kitchen nearby, you can walk over to the art galleries. You’ll be both satisfied with the culinary experience and then the visually stimulating art crawl experience. Thought provoking art is the best way to digest fine cuisine!

KC is full of great dining. Since you’re allowed to have cheat days when doing the Keto diet—if you’re going to cheat, do it at Louie’s Wine Dive and get the beignets. OH MY GOD. My hubby and I don’t even like sweets but we devour the beignets with a controlled version of reckless abandon (if that’s possible). Meaning, we finish them off but slowly as if that makes it seem like we’ve practiced some kind of discipline. The rum butter sauce is the devil. I love art. I love, love, love how your mind doesn’t realize it’s actually being enriched while it feels like it’s just escaping. The art is piercing your psyche but you don’t even realize it. You question the themes later…and that means the art exhibit worked.Look on your calendar right now and schedule a First Friday Art Crawl weekend in Kansas City. Go for even half an hour, an hour, whatever you can fit in. The food trucks around the corner, the live entertainment, the pedestrian vibe is so perfect for a Friday night escape. We walked, peered into windows and unplugged on a Fall night. Now, I’m going to have to try this trapeze swing gym. Look closely; I’m “reflecting on it.”  Love it! THAT’S KANSAS CITY!photos by Gina Kingsley

follow gypsyfamilytravel on Instagram.

Antigua… Colonial Charm and Beauty

Our Guatemalan adventure began and ended with the dazzling city of Antigua, a world UNESCO site. Antigua is the ideal introduction into Guatemala. The architecture, cobbled streets and colonial charm was our time machine back into the 1500’s. Colorful buildings, vendors, artisans and Central Park with its twinkling lights was an explosion of “Bienvenido!” in our faces.

Strolling the streets to our dinner restaurant, we lined up single file to navigate the small sidewalks. My friend remarked on the inordinate amount of PDA (public displays of affection) going on in Central Park. It was true–the Guatemalan couples are passionate. They were perfect “props” for this idyllic and romantic landscape.

After dinner, we continued our strolling among the atmospheric streets–yes, the one with the Golden Arch..  A mix of stylish men and women among indigenous people selling their wares was as picturesque as the illuminated architecture.

from internet

The streets and curbs have lights running along them and the roofs of the buildings did, too. How brilliant this idea is–it makes Antigua shimmer, sparkle and gives it an incandescence in the night. Antigua, like Athens and other cosmopolitan cities, doesn’t like to sleep. The weekend party seems to linger. Just when you think you’ve fallen asleep after the final sounds of the last partier, you’ll awaken to a rooster and church bells. They were sounds that make you cranky but not cacophonious ones; in fact, they were somewhat melodious.

Ascending to our hotel’s rooftop, we “consciously caffeinated ” to a mesmerizing sunrise. A couple of the thirty three volcanoes of Guatemala were shrouding us in a misty panorama. Posing for pictures left and right, our photographic- FOMO (fear of missing out) was a perfect way to wake up. We had the rooftop all to ourselves which was great bonding for our girls’ trip. I climbed over the rooftop wall of our hotel to get to another rooftop so there would be no photo-FOMO. On our returning night there, which was the night before departure, we went to the Chocolate Museum – a display of chocolates with the most unique fillings (Bailey’s Irish Cream, Tequila, rum, Oreo cookie crust, etc)  and a  chocolate fondue demonstration. Next door was a fabulous jade jewelry store. While Mexico has its silver, Dominican Republic has its larimar, other countries have their turquoise—Guatemala has is jade!- traditional jade, lavender jade, white jade, etc. We ooohed and aahhhed like young girls over our jade trials, selections, and purchases.  The unique white jade won my heart, forever reminding me of the volcanic mist and marshmallow clouds of Guatemala. At a quiet and calm happy hour behind a walled courtyard of draping florals, we summarized our trip impressions over the freshest top shelf margaritas. With a slightly sombre tone to saying goodbye to this country, I think our bodies and minds were full and tired from a power packed itinerary.

A gourmet dinner at the jazz-themed Bistro Bourbon was my first traditional steak of the week with potatoes in whisky-sauce and a Malbec wine…divine! A drizzle of a chimichurri- style sauce on the side and some absolutely delicious vegetables was a hearty meal to end our Antigua night. A 3:00 a.m. wake up time to depart back to the Guatemala City airport was just right around the corner.  Lying on my colonial style canopy bed among several ornate native-style pillows at the PalacioChico Hotel, the sounds of partiers outside my window shutters did not irritate me this time–it actually entertained me as the last sounds of the Guatemala energy to which we’d become accustomed. “Adios Antigua! Charmed, I’m sure!!!”

© GIna Michalopulos Kingsley

photos by Gina

Click on link below to order the book by Gina Kingsley

https://www.amazon.com/Magic-Carpet-Ride-Michalopulos-Kingsley/dp/069271393X

You have to try these tacos!!

I’m not usually a taco-lover. But I’m now a believer and quite in love with KC Taco Co. in the River District of Kansas City, right next to the City Market (another favorite of mine). We happened upon these gem this summer. I love places with authenticity and originality. Parked outside of this quaint and cozy restaurant is the owner’s  bus. The indoor mural shows a replica of the bus with one of my favorite sayings, “Bloom where you are planted.” Sunflowers and other lively decor add to this happy theme.

The menu is divine and you can mix and match taco styles and fillings. Thai Chili Shrimp might be my favorite and the crispy tortilla complements it very well. My favorite thing on the menu is the Watermelon Mojito (served in a mason jar), I have to say. It’s a perfect way to start or end your morning or afternoon of strolling through the City Market. 

Head up to and buy a vintage cap now that you’re loosened up and satiated on mojitos and delicious tacos. What could be better than that? KC Taco Company at 520 Walnut Street in Kansas Cityhttp://www.kctacocompany.com

Photos by Gina Kingsley

The Milestone Vacay

Theme trips—they’re all the rage in the travel world. Travel buzzwords like voluntourism, agriturismo, glamping, worldschooling, etc….join the likes of mother-son trips, senior class trips, family reunions, etc.

What about the well-loved R & R trip? the “vacay” as we now call it? The trip just to recharge, relax and let the mind do nothing but the sweetness of doing nothing-la dolce vita.

from internet

 

I’m calling it the milestone trip in my case. Friends turning the big 5-0 seem to want the beach vacay. Hitting that mid-century milestone means you’ve thrown all the big fiestas in life and now, you want to reward yourself with the ultimate gift–appreciation, relaxation, celebration and vacation. The “-ations” of life. You’ve earned it.

Here’s how friends and I did it– find an inexpensive flight, like to the Caribbean islands  or a similar destination. Split condos on the beach. Stay a week or in my case, 5 days suffices. Eat in if you want in your handy condo kitchenette or dine out some nights. The choice is yours.

Itinerary: no required sightseeing, necessarily; no culture. What??? This is a travesty for a travel writer to suggest but it’s a possibility considering you may have done several intense cultural trips in the last few years. Sometimes you need a languid trip with girlfriends. If you’ve done the voluntourism trip, the altruism, slept on the bunk bed, immersed in culture, danced and participated in an Indian wedding, wore the henna, drank the hot cocoa in the Guatemalan tour guide’s village home, etc. ….now, you might just need a margarita and a novel on the beach. The only thing on your packing list is the following: bathing suits, cute cover ups, sunscreen, novels, a beach bag, a beach hat, a passport and some sunnies. You’re going to deeply analyze lapping waves on the shore, cotton-candy clouds and an endless expanse of sky and sea while enjoying witty banter with girlfriends. That’s right; no clients, no colleagues, no children who require motherly wisdom, no pets’ needs of the circadian rhythm world, no volunteer group good deeds….just you celebrating a milestone. LIFE.

How often do you find yourself on your day off not even knowing how to fully relax? You feel like you have to read something, write something, clean something, organize something, exercise, stretch, pray for something, namaste for something or something…..But you know what else you need to do? Sometimes you just need to let your mind wander, staring at nature and what’s bigger than us. Crashing waves, erosion of rocks into sand, sea breezes, excitedly selecting sundresses to pack, supportive bonding with friends, downsizing your camera lens choices and just “getting away.” From. It. All. 

What did this kind of trip format provide for me?  It provided a respite from to- do lists, looming deadlines and details of a son’s college graduation, career goals, etc. No travel visas, no change in currency, no foreign language, just a destination that is both Caribbean and UK-owned. No massive jet lag and no list of desired souvenirs, other than that duty-free bling, maybe.

Lodging: condos are a great idea if you like having roommates; hotel rooms if you need more privacy.

Dinner: seafood restaurants are going to be the logical choice because of the fresh seafood. Most restaurants are going to have a diverse menu that will offer several options, though.

Excursions: boat ride, snorkeling, daydreaming, scuba diving, paddle boarding, reading, napping, planning the next vacay. Swimming with stingray, starfish, lion fish, conch shells, sea turtles, dolphin discovery centers.  You get the idea!Caribbean islands like Cuba, Aruba, Grand Caymans, etc…are excellent choices for milestone vacays. Depending on what vibe you’re looking for:  culture and arts immersion? voluntourism and history? or a beach vacation for rest, relaxation, total pleasure and bonding, boating and sea and marine life exploration. Domestic destinations for a milestone vacay can be a resort, something in your home state, a cabin at the lake or a resort spa and hotel for treats like massages, salons, yoga classes, great shopping, etc. For me, I’d rather save up for an experience than spend it on “things” at home.  Some friends recharge with golf trips, others with painting + wine classes, yoga retreats, art crawls, jewelry making classes, etc. It doesn’t have to be expensive; get creative. But start jotting down what you want to do to celebrate your milestones in life.

It may be corny to say it, but it’s true—“it’s not the years in your life that count but the life in your years.”

© Gina Michalopulos Kingsley

photos by Gina

Fuentes Georginas Hot Springs

In a country with thirty three volcanoes, you are bound to visit a hot springs park to experience this natural wonder. Guatemala’s volcanoes shroud the landscape in a breathtaking way with puffs of mist and smoke emitting from the active fumaroles.

On the outskirts of Xela, the city we were based in for much of our itinerary and volunteerism work, we drove an hour and a half away (approximately) to Fuentes Georginas Hot Springs resort for our much anticipated “bath”. The minerals, temperature and environs of this geological treasure were an exotic retreat from urban life and service. We dipped in, bounced along the bed of the pool and joined in the communal levity and exhilaration. Womb-like and mirthful, we mused on simple thoughts and questions like, “Is this a pumice-layer I’m feeling on the bottom of my feet.?” and “If we bounced over to the waterfall crevice, is it warmer over there?….”yes, it’s almost boiling!” Ahhhhh. The sensual hot springs experience with its medicinal sulphuric tinges and healing benefits is “just what the doctor ordered. ” I looked at my friends and said, “This is the most exotic spa we may ever experience.” Since it was a girls trip, too, it made it all the more appropriate for bonding.

After enough time in the springs, we sensed when our bodies reached a natural percolating point of temperature and decided to change back into our clothes and enjoy the vistas. Next to the hot springs pool was a tavern with satiated, soothed and rested tourists. We ordered mugs of hot chocolate, a favorite Guatemalan treat, and conversed with each other and our tour guide. If you’ve ever pictured what being inside a jungle or rainforest is like, it was like this. In the profusion of lush vegetation, huge leaves on the trees looked like massive yard umbrellas swaddling and tucking us into bed…to slumber…away from the world.

On the way up the winding roads, (reportedly 10,000 feet above sea level), we saw evidence of earthquake damage. This ascent was not for the faint-hearted. A nice surprise was to discover and witness the terraced vegetable farming occurring on the mountainside. Farming communities  in a scenery of antiquity and charm worked away with their scythes and nets, growing the most massive heads of cauliflower and radishes we’ve ever seen. Irrigation hoses suspended and draped across roads above us dipped into the areas of crops. What an ideal environment for this agriculture, seeing as we were in the misty cloud level of volcanic panorama and moisture all in one. Visibility was challenging. It made for a surreal and magical scene.

A horticultural haven- Fuentes Georginas. Tranquility, greenery and a perfect way to induce a deep, deep sleep that night , especially with a salsa dance lesson and a shot of Guatemalan rum to end the night.

photos by Gina

Mayan Wedding Customs Excursion

Experiencing Mayan culture and customs is a priority when visiting a Central American country. The proud Guatemalan people prefer to be called “indigenous” and not “Indian.” When you truly start to delve into their customs, Mayan calendar symbols and cosmology, you will understand the essence of this area.

Mañanas y Tardes Mayas Aquas Calientes in San Antonio is a Mayan wedding customs presentation that included so many of the highlights I wanted to encounter in Guatemala. Tortilla making over a fire, seed to cup coffee grinding and tasting, costumes in an interactive wedding ritual and a cozy, intimate setting in a village nestled in the highlands was a perfect first excursion!

grinding coffee- it’s harder than it looks!
making coffee
tortilla making

We each enacted a role and I volunteered to make the tortillas from scratch as I was most interested in that! We drank coffee straight from the batch we made and then purchased textiles and crafts made by the women. Learning the family members’ roles in the wedding ritual was fascinating. The groom’s mother wears clothes woven for her by the bride/ bride’s family. Incense is burnt, babies are swaddled in slings and pots are carried on heads. Deeper symbolisms are included and I’m only scratching the surface, here.

Anna as the bride

© Gina Michalopulos Kingsley

photos by Gina

Favorite Travel Devices

Travel aids, devices and apps make traveling easier. Why not be over prepared? Everyone wants to arrive rested and ready to tackle the journey. Many people don’t travel because they don’t like being inconvenienced or without their amenities. But what about if you could avoid all that with the right devices? Here are some recommendations from various friends :

homeopathic jet lag pills“-

“I use ziploc bags for toiletries (see through = no searching for things), Trip It Pro app to organize reservations and wrist bands for motion sickness. AND my favorite travel aid: a good travel agent.”

“Packing cubes!”

Wrist bands for motion/sea sickness for sure! Works as well as the scope patch in my opinion! They press on the P6 acupuncture pressure point & prevent nausea! It’s incredible. (Ancient Chinese method, or so the salesperson on our cruise told me when I was practically green)”

“Ziploc bags & Clorox wipes”

Trip It Pro.–organizes my flight itineraries, updates and confirmations…

“The brand I have is eBags. I seriously packed 2 weeks worth of clothing in them, put them in my Osprey Porter 46 backpack, which is carry- on approved, and went to Italy for 2 weeks. I highly recommend!”

I purchased a fantastic passport sleeve from Etsy. I love it because it is secure and doesn’t look like a passport holder. I also found a really great crossbody bag that is anti theft.

  • https://www.etsy.com/listing/269563457/sale-handmade-passport-cover-doctor-who
  • Great translation app. I have some other great apps specific to Japan…”
    Image may contain: text

    “Re; packing cubes, Backwoods has the Eagle Creek Brand. I’m pretty sure that’s the brand we use. REI has a whole bunch of different brands.”

  • “HYPERDIA is great in Tokyo. Type where you are going from and to… it tells you all your options from trains to subways, times, and tracks. You can just speak what you need but I preferred typing it in. Very accurate and you can see what is covered on a Japan Rail pass too”
  •   “there’s an  app  called Japan Shelter Guide. Fortunately I didn’t need it but it sends warnings for Earthquakes, Tsunamis, nearest shelter locations, etc. It comes in Japanese but there is a button to translate to English. I’m paranoid- and with our recent trip, the Fukushima reactor, and North Korea… it gave me peace of mind to know I’d get the warnings going out to the general public in Japan.”

     

    I always take Clorox wipes & spray bc I have to wipe EVERYTHING done in the hotel room before touching things or unpacking.”

    ” Probiotics.”

    “White noise machine”. 

     “Calm.com app on my phone.– I use this with earphones if my roommate or spouse snores
    “Also found a memory foam seat cushion at Costco that is the best!!!! Weighs nothing and “folds” in half to fit in my carry on. Made last long haul flight from UK to Thailand so much more comfortable!!!”

My personal recommendation is this noise cancelling headband. I need the headband to keep the ear buds in. I like the flexibility of moving the speakers within the headband.

More to come on this topic!!

 

Chichicastenango Craft Market

“The largest market in the Western Hemisphere”….( and some say, the world)….these words in a travel brochure definitely pop out at you, more so from a photojournalistic perspective than even from a female traveler perspective. I looked up photos of this craft phenomenon and initially pictured it as a “sea of vendors”…..a large, open lot of craft booths or tents. This would be my most colorful stop on our Guatemalan itinerary, I imagined.  

Chichicastenango was scheduled for the end of our week long trip and definitely something we’d build up to in regards to the energy and excitement of all of the excursions planned for us. After some time in Antigua, some voluntourism in Xela and a dip in the hot sulphur springs of Fuentes Georginas, the craft market and Lake Atitlan were going to be the grand finale of our adventure. After a roadtrip of winding roads and traffic, we reached Chichicastenango. I had a list in my mind of items I wanted to procure for myself and for souvenirs; blankets, table runners, tablecloths, jewelry, etc…..but mostly I was anticipating just absorbing the colorful visuals and taking photos. The market is open two days a week, Thursdays and Saturdays. We were given time to explore and shop and then meet up together for lunch at the beautiful Santo Tomas Hotel near the famous church.The vendors’ items ranged from jewelry, textiles, wheelbarrows full of peanuts, watermelon spears, hackey sacks, tortillas, aprons and much more. We were followed by aggressive salesgirls determined to sell their lovely tablecloths and occasionally we could tuck away into a calmer booth to look at the jewelry. The labrynthine market was overwhelming and stimulating, all in one. I tried to pay attention to our “path” so we could figure out how to get back to our meeting point at the Santo Tomas Hotel for our lunch buffet. My friend and I luckily found some teenage boy vendors who were more interested in their cell phones and not as aggressive. Perfect! We ended up buying most of our shopping list items there where it was calm. Mission accomplished! We enjoyed the visuals of the food market but waited for lunch to eat.As we found our path somewhat, we lingered on some placemats with matching napkins and aprons. The ceviche looked good, but again, we were not going to try street food since we had lunch plans. Just as we found a way back to the hotel (having to ask a few people for directions), we heard haunting music and commotion. There on the steps of the Santo Tomas Church, a crowd formed on every step of the historic white church. Incense, florals and chanting filled the landscape. Fireworks went off. Outside of all the chaos of the market, this spiritual ceremony and historic church balanced the energy of Chichicastenango in the most symbolic way.Before getting into the lunch buffet dining area of the beautiful Santo Tomas Hotel, we had to bypass some more vendors. Vibrant and intricate textiles as far as the eye could see.Lunch and live marimba music was a nice retreat from this hyperactive experience. It was different from what we expected but part of the Guatemalan journey a tourist should experience. The van ride on the way to Lake Atitlan would transport us to the calmest stop on our itinerary—the  magical Mayan lake and its sleepy San Juan village. We experienced Chichicastenango and its chromatic culture, crafts and chaos. When I don my apron from there, I’l recapture some of its energy and smile.photos by Gina Kingsley

order the book, A Magic Carpet Ride by Gina Michalopulos Kingsley for more travel stories and recommendations.

An evening sampling Tulsa breweries

We spent an evening exploring three Tulsa breweries “tapas- style.” This was an especially refreshing and effervescent (wink, wink) project for me because I’m typically not a beer drinker. So, when I like a particular beer—I really like it. The recent surge in Tulsa breweries has enlivened the social scene and I wanted to check them out on my own “brewery tour.”

This particular Saturday, my hubby and I started off at Heirloom Rustic Ales. I had been before in the spring for a craft show and I’d been looking forward to going back there. I’m drawn to Heirloom’s ambience because unlike the darker, brick interior, sports bar feel of a typical brewery, it has a bright interior and a decor that has both feminine and masculine features (like the decor but also the big screen TV where sports was playing). I also observed that the crowd seemed more multi-age to me. Rather than just a youngish crowd, I think the ambience also attracts middle-agers like us. Authenticity speaks volumes. While selecting which beers I would sample, the menu entertained us! Written in clever and rich descriptions, I immediately inquired about the writer. Beer titles (like wine bottle labels) are great marketing tools and work on customers like me. So, obviously, I gravitated toward the beer called Gypsy Friends and asked which other one I should try. Based on my preferences, the “beerista” suggested Cult Jam.  My customized flight was perfect for me—concentrating on two 5 ounce choices; quality not quantity. As the menu says, “Gypsy Friends —a dry, effervescent saison that gets dry hopped singularly with Hallertau Blanc. This beer reminds us of getting rescued on rafts made of hay bales, island fishing with lemongrass, and candles made of ponderosa pine sap.”  I LOVE IT!!! An intellectual vibe. The island fishing detail put me into a vacation feeling right here in the middle of a hot Tulsa summer.

The other description I’ll cite from the menu was for the other beer I sampled, Cult Jam-A basic barley recipe fermented by a sluggish tropical yeast and dry-hopped with current vintage Azaca and Citra.  This batch reminds us of a dream where Bartlett pear trees morphed into Panamanian red passionfruit, motorized boats on lake Keystone were sugar spun into guava sails on a balmy dreamsicle sea, and construction cones transformed into lychee heavy snow cone shacks.” NAILED IT! Ironically, I had conversations about Lake Keystone this week and I believe in signs so….(I know we’re talking about beer but, still, I pay attention to signs….) It was like having a spiritual connection to the beer descriptions.

I learned great info from the impressive staff.  Zac shared, ” We have beers that people don’t typically have on tap–we focus on the complexity and subtleties, obscure beers, lager and saison-forward.” I asked about  “saison” and he explained that it’s a farmer, old world style beer. Gypsy Friends beer is better when there’s age on it, IPA has a 7 day turn around, and lager , etc…(can’t make out my notes on that one). I learned that they have hosted a Thursday Think and Drink lecture and discussion group. (with a paleontologist) I also like that they have craft shows in the adjacent space which is the brewery. The food truck outside was from the Belgian Wirwar but we weren’t hungry, yet.

Next stop was Welltown Brewery.  The night before our brewery tour, we drove past Welltown and its huge balcony. What a magnetic vibe that was–reminding me of Kansas City rooftop bars and their appeal. Since summer daylight hours last longer, I wanted to try out Welltown to stretch out our afternoon leisure and lingering. Before our beer expert friends joined us there, Patrick and I played several rounds of Gin Rummy–a dejavu of our beach time in Greece decades before. We started off on the balcony where there are outdoor games, moved inside to the board games and ran into some friends of ours who were playing the boardgame Battle of the Sexes. I sampled an IPA and the Tart Blackberry Sour--again, just sticking to two beers. The game atmosphere on a Saturday afternoon was perfect for us. Instead of the former running around to events for our three sons over the last 23 years, we were actually playing card games and I was drinking beer and speaking with “beeristas”. Our Saturday morning of Farmers Marketing, exercise, yard work and a few house chores was done—and we were playing board games (like kids on a playdate) and I was day-drinking beer on a balcony….and we weren’t even on vacation! The IPA was perfect and the tart beer was interesting to try–quite an explosion of flavors. I bought tacos from the food truck outside.

Our friends met up with us and we moved onto American Solera. Also, a great spot for being outdoors as well as indoors, Solera is a frequent brewery stop of ours. Being in midtown now, and not downtown, we were closer to home. It’s kind of a neighborhood brewery for us that we have even walked to on our route. The beer served in wine goblets is a bonus for me because I feel like I’m drinking a white wine. Now, they serve their beer in a variety of glasses.   

I’ve had several favorites at Solera but that night I tried Rose Colored Sky and had a sip of my friend’s Turpey Citra. Solera has a great vibe–reminiscent of European towns. We ran into more peers there and people-watched a procession of biker couples attend a concert inside The Shrine next door. We ran into more friends having a pre-dinner drink on their way to Dalesandro’s across the street and we’ve even gone over to Mercury Lounge before after American Solera.

It’s a great corner. We still felt like we were  downtown as the skyline was right in front of us, sitting outside on the picnic tables surrounded by barrels.                                                                   I’m always intrigued by the cyclists who gather here. Exercise + beer afterwards. We’ve done it before, too, after a hike at Turkey Mountain. Our friends bought a calzone and pizza from the food truck on the property. I do love those pizzas from that truck. Highly recommended!

So, that was our brewery tour. It began at 4:00 ish p.m. and ended at 8:00 p.m. It was a casual and care-free afternoon and a departure for us from our usual, “get dressed up and go have a big dinner with wine and friends” and a great way to support local. It was also nice to add many new favorites to my typical favorite beer, Marshall’s Sundown Wheat.

photos by Gina

 

 

San Andres Xecul- A charming village in Guatemala

Something about tiny villages (especially after being in busy cities) impacts me. The authenticity, the tranquility, the integrity of traditions and a slower pace of life is like a proclamation that stands out and differentiates itself from the urban environments within a country. That’s how I felt about San Andres Xecul.That’s also how I feel about the tiny, remote and authentic villages around the world but especially this particular one in Guatemala! I’m sure it’s because of the occasional summer time spent in my dad’s village in Greece. Big cities have their allure and we gravitate toward them but the pulchitrude of small villages affects me in other ways.

A drive outside of Quetzaltenango, (“Xela” for short) was the endearing town of San Andres de Xecul, home of the world- known church. The taxi-cab yellow church with its whimsical art and symbols was awe-inspiring. It’s the centerpiece of the village–so much so, that its vibrant colors are the focal point among the muted and ashen tone of the rest of the buildings. The dyed textile threads and corn drying on the rooftops of the homes are the only other colors you’ll see, at first. Then, when you ascend the steep, mile-high roads, you’ll encounter brightly painted doors and facades. At the top of the village, there’s a smaller replica of the church and a stunning panoramic view of the town next to a big blue cross.

dyed threads drying

Peacefulness is an understatement of the feeling I had at this view. Next to the church were three Mayan women worshipping at three crosses; evidence of religious syncretism and a powerful visual. Out of respect for their privacy,( pictures are not welcomed of this) I am only showing the crosses.

Our tour guide was a former Peace Corp volunteer and his efforts to promote cultural awareness, preservation of village life and community were impressive. We learned customs, saw work in action and meandered up the village roads encountering Guatemalan life at its best. He pointed out an outdoor oven (similar to a chimnea but larger and rotund). Juan explained that this was used for post-natal women to sit in with herbs as they bounced back from pregnancy. Three women at one time could sit in there! I assume it was the origin of our modern day sauna. We stopped at a spigot on a wall that has become a type of a courtship ritual. Young couples supposedly meet there and ask if water is needed. That’s code for “do you want to date?”

Corn and textile threads drying on the lines was a visual that made me realize the origin of the corn flour and vibrant textiles we buy in finished product. You never think about the beginning steps–the dyed threads drying. Amazing! An embroidery artisan sitting on the ground with her giant embroidery ring while baby chicks fluttered around was my favorite visual, I think. The tour guide explained her process, her art …and she invited me to do some simple embroidery steps. I  thought of my late mother who stood over me admonishing me to do my childhood embroidery projects with accuracy. What a giggle she’d get seeing me now in Guatemala with an expert!

Lastly, we finished our tour sitting in the coral living room of Juan’s mountain top home, drinking hot chocolate and eating the fluffiest, lightest, air-filled bread roll with powdered sugar dusted on top. DIVINITY!!!!! His young son played with toys nearby as Juan explained more about this wonderful culture. San Andres de Xecul was a favorite for me—the coy villagers flirted with me about being photographed and played hide and seek out of windows and rooftops. I spoke limited Spanish with some children and they tried out an English “Thank You!” on me when I gave them money to share among themselves. While walking down the hill to our tour van, my friend and I mused about how we hope that village always stays remote, private and rustic. “Que paiz?,” people asked me (What place are you from?)” to which I answered, “Estados Unidos.” It sounds easy –our states being united.  With all the partisan issues that go on back home, it often feels divided. There’s no place like home, though, and I always appreciate it more and more when I travel.

so steep they had to hang onto our tour guide!

While there’s donkeys and antiquity, there are still modern details like cell phones and signs of Facebook- promoted ads! The villagers prioritize their privacy and we respect it, too, so it’s important to find that balance.

It was a tranquil day of visuals. It takes a village…..

© Gina Michalopulos Kingsley

photos by GIna

 

A MAGIC CARPET RIDE