San Andres Xecul- A charming village in Guatemala

Something about tiny villages (especially after being in busy cities) impacts me. The authenticity, the tranquility, the integrity of traditions and a slower pace of life is like a proclamation that stands out and differentiates itself from the urban environments within a country. That’s how I felt about San Andres Xecul.That’s also how I feel about the tiny, remote and authentic villages around the world but especially this particular one in Guatemala! I’m sure it’s because of the occasional summer time spent in my dad’s village in Greece. Big cities have their allure and we gravitate toward them but the pulchitrude of small villages affects me in other ways.

A drive outside of Quetzaltenango, (“Xela” for short) was the endearing town of San Andres de Xecul, home of the world- known church. The taxi-cab yellow church with its whimsical art and symbols was awe-inspiring. It’s the centerpiece of the village–so much so, that its vibrant colors are the focal point among the muted and ashen tone of the rest of the buildings. The dyed textile threads and corn drying on the rooftops of the homes are the only other colors you’ll see, at first. Then, when you ascend the steep, mile-high roads, you’ll encounter brightly painted doors and facades. At the top of the village, there’s a smaller replica of the church and a stunning panoramic view of the town next to a big blue cross.

Peacefulness is an understatement of the feeling I had at this view. Next to the church were three Mayan women worshipping at three crosses; evidence of religious syncretism and a powerful visual. Out of respect for their privacy,( pictures are not welcomed of this) I am only showing the crosses.

Our tour guide was a former Peace Corp volunteer and his efforts to promote cultural awareness, preservation of village life and community were impressive. We learned customs, saw work in action and meandered up the village roads encountering Guatemalan life at its best. He pointed out an outdoor oven (similar to a chimnea but larger and rotund). Juan explained that this was used for post-natal women to sit in with herbs as they bounced back from pregnancy. Three women at one time could sit in there! I assume it was the origin of our modern day sauna. We stopped at a spigot on a wall that has become a type of a courtship ritual. Young couples supposedly meet there and ask if water is needed. That’s code for “do you want to date?”

Corn and textile threads drying on the lines was a visual that made me realize the origin of the corn flour and vibrant textiles we buy in finished product. You never think about the beginning steps–the dyed threads drying. Amazing! An embroidery artisan sitting on the ground with her giant embroidery ring while baby chicks fluttered around was my favorite visual, I think. The tour guide explained her process, her art …and she invited me to do some simple embroidery steps. I thought of my late mother who stood over me admonishing me to do my childhood embroidery projects with accuracy. What a giggle she’d get seeing me now in Guatemala with an expert!

Lastly, we finished our tour sitting in the coral living room of Juan’s mountain top home, drinking hot chocolate and eating the fluffiest, lightest, air-filled bread roll with powdered sugar dusted on top. DIVINITY!!!!! His young son played with toys nearby as Juan explained more about this wonderful culture. San Andres de Xecul was a favorite for me—the coy villagers flirted with me about being photographed and played hide and seek out of windows and rooftops. I spoke limited Spanish with some children and they tried out an English “Thank You!” on me when I gave them money to share among themselves. While walking down the hill to our tour van, my friend and I mused about how we hope that village always stays remote, private and rustic. “Que paiz?,” people asked me (What place are you from?)” to which I answered, “Estados Unidos.” It sounds easy –our states being united. With all the partisan issues that go on back home, it often feels divided. There’s no place like home, though, and I always appreciate it more and more when I travel.

While there’s donkeys and antiquity, there are still modern details like cell phones and signs of Facebook- promoted ads! The villagers prioritize their privacy and we respect it, too, so it’s important to find that balance.