Remember Bjork’s lyrics ,”Big Time Sensuality…?” My trip to Iceland was the first time the words intimate and intimacy revealed themselves to me in relevance to a country’s vibe. Possibly, because that is how Iceland is—always revealing itself, a geological exhibitionist with erupting, thundering, boiling, steaming, floating, undulating, illuminating, glowing, colliding, calving, flowing, receding, and hissing phenomena. It is the largest untamed wilderness of Europe. I say “of” because it’s an island, of course, and not on the continental landmass of Europe.

The interplay of those words presents an intimacy of geology which really mimics the intimacy of human nature, in my perspective.

I wonder, “was the Icelandic artist (Bjork) influenced by the powerfully engaged senses of living in Iceland when she wrote her song?” If so, I can understand why. The surrealistic landscape of Iceland with its varied terrain of red hills, snowy mountaintops, black  beaches, and rippling and billowing lava fields formed this country’s extremities.

Devoid of music in some places, (until nighttime in the taverns) the stillness of this remote northernmost capital of the world, (Reykjavik) felt as if Mother Earth hit the pause button—the day was delayed. Silent, still, dark, veiled and benighted. With sunrise not occurring until 11:15 a.m., the tenebrous “mornings” were the ultimate snug and tranquil figurative embrace that the cosmos could offer me.  I absolutely loved the Icelandic day’s rhythm. (Of course, it was only for a few days…who knows if I’d feel the same after several weeks?) The unique Reykjavik mornings will be described in another blog. Having 5 hours or so of daylight a day makes you productive in sightseeing! Our New Year’s Eve celebration, an authentic local tradition with the people of Reykjavik, was another example of the intimacy there. It far surpassed my expectations and deserves its own upcoming blog article, too. (New Year’s Eve Traditions in Iceland). And naturally, the Blue Lagoon would provide the most sultry of experiences as we bobbed in the 800 year old geothermal spa.

But perhaps the most intimate experience for me was the Golden Circle day. Leaving before sunrise in a large coach bus, we traveled in the emergent daypeep hours to gaze upon the landmarks which best represent this geologically young and still volcanically active country. Excitedly arriving at Pingvellir National Park (also called Thingvellir) timed succinctly with sunrise, we observed the rift valley and absorbed the fact that we were on two tectonic plates (North American and Eurasian). Cracks or faults show the continental drift clearly and the volcanic environment’s magma is what makes this island country still growing today. Being a windy day and wearing two layers that day only, I quickly shot photos, bought a coffee and retreated to the bus for warmth and time to awaken. The hues and layers of the sunrise were so perfect and vivid, you only needed a few photos to capture it. This subarctic landmass of Iceland is a floating strip of Atlantic Ocean –remote and isolated. I kept comparing it to being on the moon’s surface. Coincendentally, I read later that the Apollo astronauts of the 1960’s trained in Iceland because of its similarity to the moon. Of course!

The drives between the landmarks exposed us to pastures, farmhouses, horses and calmness. They seemed brief although they were approximately an hour apart. The colossal, roaring Gullfoss waterfall (the largest in Europe) with its plummeting sprays merge into the earth in sheets of water that are both silky and staccato-ed. You could capture both types of streaming water at once. The rainwater and the glaciers’ meltwater crash into the canyon of the Hvita River. Gullfoss is similar to our Niagara Falls and the view of this spectacle bonded the crowds together. It was a wonderful sense of humanity gathering around the thundering waterfall–its beauty and resounding massiveness captivated us all. While crampons were recommended everywhere, careful and heavy-footed steps got us around the plank ways. (Although one spectator did fall on the slippery ground. Other people went outside the barrier to pose for a picture and got reprimanded. Quite daring and dangerous.)  Adjacent to this natural beauty was an incandescent glacier, regally situated, awaiting our gaze and admiration.

“I can sense it
Something important
Is about to happen
It’s coming up

It takes courage to enjoy it
The hardcore and the gentle

Big time sensuality
We just met
And I know I’m a bit too intimate
But something huge is coming up
And we’re both included”  

(Songwriters: BJORK GUDMUNDSDOTTIR,NELLEE HOOPER) lyrics of the song, Big Time Sensuality

We drove some more and reached Geysir, the earliest known geyser of Europe. The word “geyser” is named after this hot spring. Before I found it, I was transfixed by the bubbling mud pots of geothermal pools. Green moss and reddish and russeted grasses blanketed around the sultry, steamy pools of gaseous, sulphuric cauldrons. The streaked sky of orange and pink was the vivid backdrop. As if they were teasing the earth, the taunting pools and their haunting mist danced for us. Not knowing the geology facts precisely, I had my own poetic interpretation of  what was occurring. The hot vents coexisting with icy, snowcapped mountains were the “fire and ice” phrase which labels Iceland. Just around the corner of these heated vents, I knew there must be Geysir. Suddenly, it erupted. Rocketing up 210 feet in the air, reportedly, the geyser discharged and flared. I photographed the last few seconds and waited six minutes for the next eruption. They seemed to work in tandem; the hot, steamy pools low to the earth and the ejecting geyser seemed like the yin yang of fertility; female and male. Like a nervous breakdown of nature. The “hardcore and the gentle “ (as Bjork sang). Earth was never more personified for me.

Lastly, we drove to Faxi waterfall and passed vegetation greenhouses. There were  horses and ponies and the natural borders of tall trees between properties. My friend pointed out that Icelanders use the natural border of trees to blend into the landscape rather than fences and walls. It was a perfect day. Being the wife and mother of Geo-Physics trained men, I crave returning to Iceland with them one day so I can enjoy it through their perspective and knowledge. What amazing tour guides they’ll be! This was a new experience for me in such  wintery, weather-proof clothing .  My friend and I facetiously planned ahead of time to bring some glamorous fur hats as our one girly accessory. Even if we hadn’t, I can honestly say this trip had me feeling a lot of feminine energy despite the Arctic attire. Ironic and inspiring.

The next day’s excursion to the Blue Lagoon would be the finale. Now, we’d immerse into the 800 year old geothermal water surrounded by lava…

all photos by Gina Kingsley

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